Face shape gets mentioned constantly in style guides—haircuts for your face shape, glasses for your face shape, beards for your face shape. But most people can't actually identify their own face shape accurately, which makes all that advice useless.
Here's how to actually determine your face shape and use that information practically.
The Core Face Shapes
Most classification systems recognize 6-8 face shapes. Here are the main categories:
Oval
Characteristics:
- Face length greater than width
- Forehead slightly wider than jaw
- Gentle curve at the jawline
- Cheekbones are the widest point
Often called: The "balanced" or "ideal" face shape (though this is arbitrary)
Round
Characteristics:
- Face width and length roughly equal
- Full cheeks
- Rounded jawline without angular definition
- Soft features overall
Square
Characteristics:
- Forehead, cheekbones, and jaw all similar width
- Strong, angular jaw
- Relatively straight sides
- Often a more horizontal hairline
Oblong/Rectangle
Characteristics:
- Face noticeably longer than wide
- Forehead, cheeks, and jaw similar width
- May have higher forehead or longer chin
- Straighter sides
Heart/Inverted Triangle
Characteristics:
- Forehead is widest point
- Face narrows toward chin
- Pointed or narrow chin
- Often prominent cheekbones
Diamond
Characteristics:
- Cheekbones are widest point
- Narrow forehead and jaw
- Pointed chin
- Angular appearance
Triangle/Pear
Characteristics:
- Jaw is widest point
- Forehead narrower than jaw
- Face widens downward
How to Accurately Measure Your Face Shape
The mirror-and-guess approach is notoriously unreliable. Here's a more objective method:
Step 1: Photograph (Not Mirror)
Take a photo with:
- Hair pulled back completely
- Camera at face level, not angled
- Good, even lighting
- Neutral expression
- Face looking straight at camera
Step 2: Measure or Trace
Either print the photo and measure, or use digital tools:
Key measurements:
- Forehead width (across at widest point)
- Cheekbone width (across the face at cheekbone level)
- Jawline width (across at the jaw angle)
- Face length (hairline to chin)
Step 3: Compare Ratios
- If length is 1.5x the cheekbone width = oblong
- If all horizontal measurements similar + strong jaw = square
- If cheekbones widest, narrow forehead/jaw = diamond
- If forehead widest, narrow chin = heart
- If width and length similar, soft jaw = round
- If jaw widest = triangle
- If cheekbones widest, gentle jaw = oval
Tools like Potential AI can help with objective measurement, removing guesswork from the process.
Practical Applications
Now that you know your shape, here's how to use it:
Haircuts
The general principle: create visual balance by adding volume where the face is narrower and keeping it closer where it's wider.
Round face: Add height on top, keep sides shorter. Avoid short, rounded cuts that emphasize width.
Square face: Soften angles with textured styles. Avoid blunt, geometric cuts that emphasize squareness.
Oblong face: Add width at sides, avoid excessive height. Don't elongate further with very short sides and tall tops.
Heart face: Balance wider forehead with volume around jaw level. Side-swept styles work well.
Diamond face: Add fullness at forehead and chin level. Works well with many styles due to prominent cheekbones.
Beards (For Men)
Round face: Angular beard shapes (extended at chin) add definition. Avoid rounded beards.
Square face: Keep full but slightly softer. The strong jaw doesn't need more emphasis.
Oblong face: Fuller on sides, shorter on bottom. Avoid elongating beards.
Heart/Triangle: Opposite needs—heart shapes benefit from fuller beards; triangle shapes may want less jaw emphasis.
Glasses
Round face: Angular frames to add structure. Avoid perfectly round frames.
Square face: Rounder or oval frames to soften. Avoid boxy frames.
Oblong face: Wider frames that break up length. Avoid small, narrow frames.
Heart face: Bottom-heavy frames or rimless on bottom. Avoid top-heavy styles.
Oval face: Most styles work. Lucky you.
Makeup (For Contouring)
Face shape determines strategic shadow and highlight placement:
Round: Contour sides of face and jawline to create definition Square: Soften jaw angles and temples Oblong: Contour forehead and chin to visually shorten Heart: Contour temples and add fullness to jaw area
Does Weight Loss Change Face Shape?
A common question: will losing weight change my face shape?
Short answer: Not the shape, but the definition.
Weight loss removes subcutaneous fat, revealing underlying bone structure more clearly. A round face might appear more oval or heart-shaped as fat reduces. But the bones themselves don't change—you're just seeing them more clearly.
This is why people with strong bone structure often see dramatic face changes with weight loss, while others with different structure see more modest changes.
When Face Shape Doesn't Matter
A reality check: face shape is one variable among many. Don't let it limit you excessively:
- Personal style preference matters more than "optimal" choices
- Many "wrong" choices still look good
- Confidence in a style often matters more than perfect matching
- Trends constantly override face-shape rules
Use face shape as a starting point, not a rigid rule.
Conclusion
Understanding your face shape provides practical information for styling decisions—haircuts, glasses, beards, and makeup can all be optimized with this knowledge. The key is accurate measurement rather than guessing.
Get objective data about your face shape, use it as a starting point for experimentation, and remember that personal preference ultimately matters most.
Know your shape. Use the information. Don't be imprisoned by it.